Showing posts with label tussar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tussar. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 23, 2022

in a pink nylon saree

it was my maternal uncle’s wedding. may 1966. i was six, my cousins between four and ten. we were five of us girls i think. we were all going to attend the wedding in calcutta and then go to delhi for the reception. my grandmother, always generous, fun, a bit over the top as grandmothers really ought to be, decided to get nearly identical lehengas and sarees made for us.

the lehengas were in red silk with green cholis and red floaty odhnis, lots of shimmery gold zari all over.

the sarees were in various shades of pink. pink nylon… from a calm poised rose to a bright unstinting gulabi. and they had shiny gota work all over. ribbons of silver zari had been cut and trimmed and appliquéd in a pretty pattern on the slippery material; the silver with its cool tinsel sheen and the pink so smooth and ice cream like. they were little girls’ sarees, much shorter in both length and width than regular ones.

rajasthan is well known for gota work, my grandmother had had the sarees made in jaipur, where my grandfather’s younger brother and his wife lived. i will never forget that gaudy happy saree of mine. to me it was beautiful, absolutely perfect; in fact, now that i think of it, i wish i still had it. stays in my mind, its touch, its colour, its pattern, its gota dazzle, the springy feel of nylon.

it was my first “good saree”. not that i had a serious collection of sarees by the age of six, i did have one other saree though. a yellow cotton, which i’d worn for saraswati puja that year. children would often wear sarees for the puja dedicated to the goddess of learning. yellow being the preferred colour, though exactly why i have no idea.

but the pink and silver saree was my hot favourite. i wore it many times after my uncle’s wedding, finding all sorts of excuses to throw it on. i was also convinced i looked impossibly beautiful in it. to the credit of all those who suffered my self obsession, no one damaged my fantasy, quite happily letting me believe, yes, indeed i was gorgeous in pink sparkly nylon.

nylon. slippery and synthetic. can’t say i like the fabric at all. in the sixties though, this human made material was not only in, it may have even been a sign of a contemporary woman, one with a mind of her own even, daring to try new ideas, not just traditional silks and cottons. i don’t know if i read that right, but my mother, maternal aunts, and grandmother often wore nylon sarees; and they were all women with a modern bent of mind, tough, hard to rein in… ha. maybe that’s why i feel nylon sarees said something about the wearer’s personality. there was a very pretty one of my grandmother’s, base off white, tiny rose buds printed all across.

as i write, a thought comes along. was it my my pink nylon gota saree that was responsible for two things in more recent years?

first, when my mother turned seventy, we had a party for her and i was keen to pick up a dhakai for both of us. so i went to this lady from whom i’ve been buying dhakais for years, i chose a lovely black and white one for my mother and then my eyes fell on a pink and silver saree. i couldn’t look away.

this strawberry ice cream hued fine cotton with silver zari glittering on it… i just could not look away. i forgot my age, i forgot my million inhibitions, i had to buy it.

wore it the very next day with a blouse that didn’t match… ten years on, when the saree frayed, i sent desperate whatsapp messages to the lady, with pictures; and very kindly, she had one more made for me. almost the exact same shade.

of course, in the meantime i’d bought another one in pink, just in case this couldn’t be replicated. and i notice, i find it very hard, extremely so in fact, to stay sane when i see a pink saree. plenty of new gulabis suddenly in my cupboard. maybe as i age, a part of me is suddenly racing back, trying to pick up something from back then. catching a gota shine and dragging it here.

second, when my daughter was about six years old, i asked a dear aunt of mine, who has her own boutique, to make a saree for my daughter. there was a wedding in the family. my aunt made a wonderful saree. no, not in nylon. it was a rich blue tussar, embroidered all over, with border and pallu in… pink.

 

would like to thank a friend of mine, for reminding me of our first sarees and how a girl looks all grown up when she gets into a saree.

 

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sarees tell stories | pink dhakai from sumitra sengupta, calcutta, 2017; pink printed tussar from toontooni, calcutta, 2017; pink rajkot patola from design & drama, calcutta 2016; blue and pink tussar from raya’s boutique, calcutta, 2007.


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sarees tell stories index

the friday saree index

 
 

Tuesday, February 22, 2022

i feel silly smiling at the phone: the friday saree

 

 

this is the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but...  i don't like being photographed. i am awkward in front of a camera, don't know what to do with my hands, worry i'll look like a gargoyle, feel under pressure, and most inconfident. and it's really silly to smile at the phone.

yet, every friday, after i wear the saree, i go and do just that. how much i've smiled at this rectangular object with no feelings. and poor ibi, the indefatigable cook, who with an impassive face bears all my frazzled posing, takes a hundred shots so i can choose two or three, never complains. in fact, every now and then chirpily says, "smile." 

why do i do it? how can i not, when i've worn a saree? here are a few friday sarees from the last couple of months.

 

think this is the first narayanpet i've bought for myself. the silk is light and falls gently, a whisper against the skin. abhihaara in hyderabad is a society of weavers, always feels good to get a saree from there. 

5 november, 2021.

 

a saree from odisha, bought years ago, not black, a deep bottle green. is this a sambalpuri silk? might be. 

12 november, 2021.

 

i'd never heard of kunbi sarees till a friend from goa mentioned them. i searched the internet looking for them, found a facebook page, they had a whatsapp number, we chatted, and i had my first kunbis. slightly thick cotton sarees, with their trademark simplicity, so basic and honest, you've got to respect them. they fit in with a community's way of life. tough sarees, not at all afraid the heat and dust. 

19 november, 2021. 


a favourite odisha saree from a lovely young textile designer's shop... vani vrtti. she calls this ananta, a take on flowing water, the pallu has signs of water life. the tussar yarn is rich and soft, hand spun by the women of the area. 

26 november, 2019.

 

a gossamer light cotton chanderi from, of course, chanderi. such a stroke of luck finding ayaz bhai, who'll show you chanderis on a video call, pulling out sarees from almirahs in one room of their house. nearby, his sister in law, bhabi, might be weaving a fine simmering saree. 

10 december, 2021.
 


a patola from rajkot. for some reason, i thought it was an odisha bandha, i was wrong. the colour is sleek and the saree falls like a deep sigh. 

17 december, 2021.


a saree from at least thirty years ago, tangerine and peach, thick rich cotton, a nuapatna ikkat from odisha, has a cool demeanour. 

24 december, 2021.


a jet black soft silk with wonderful kañtha embroidery in browns and creams, i flipped the pallu and wore it somewhat gujarati style, maybe a little parsi too. last evening of the year, mark it. 

31 december, 2021.


first shabbat of the year, i wore this leisurely cotton from odisha, ikkat, not sure from which area exactly, but it's a subtle play of shades, someone said it matched the table cloth, i said, good. obviously in a brown mood me. 

7 january, 2022.


a mekhela sador in cotton, from assam, not a saree really, yet anything with the elements of pallu and pleats, feels like one. that flyaway tucked end of the sador adds such a playful note. sassy, even. 

14 january, 2022.


when i heard, the tata group, known for its steel plants, cars, software engineering, watches, hotels, etc., were starting a saree shop, i was taken aback. i almost laughed, the idea was so funny. but i'm glad they did. some very interesting sarees at taneira. this one i saw on their instagram account and fell for the story. tussar sarees embroidered by a group of rabadi women in bhuj who had seen the terrible earthquake, the embroidery expresses their emotions of that experience... simple motifs of homes, waves, children, the sun... survivors drawing strength from their craft. consummate needle work, bright colours, you'd never guess they were speaking of trauma. 

21 january, 2022.




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sarees tell stories index

the friday saree index

 

 

photos credit ferolyn fernandez

Wednesday, September 16, 2020

it happened this afternoon


a girl on a bicycle coming from the other direction, stopped in middle of the pavement and said, “my god, you’re all wearing sarees and walking down the road, you’re looking so good, it’s like someone’s modelling...” words to that effect. a young singaporean chinese girl, she was delighted. we gawked, then beamed. we were strolling down scotts on our way to various bus stops after lunch at the tanglin club, our disposable masks on thanks to covid 19. as i got onto 105, the chinese bus driver said from behind his mask, “aap kaisa hai?”... how are you. taken aback, i forgot my hindi and mumbled, “achha hai.” 
paisa wasool – worth every penny – saree wearing what.
 
 
 
 

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sarees tell stories | orange handspun odisha khadi tussar from vani vrtti, 2020. found this bengaluru based shop specializing in odisha weaves on instagram.
 
 
 
 
 
 

how many pleats? index 

sarees tell stories index

the friday saree index

 

 


 

iron nails and camel dung